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Sunday, 31 March 2024

How to Use Up Those Easter Eggs

Good morning. I had a lovely run of Brooklyn sandwiches going, before work, school and Easter intervened to send me back to the kitchen. There was a classic Saigon-style bánh mì from Ba Xuyen in Sunset Park. A colossal roast beef, fried eggplant and…
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How to Use Up Those Easter Eggs

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April 1

Good morning. I had a lovely run of Brooklyn sandwiches going, before work, school and Easter intervened to send me back to the kitchen. There was a classic Saigon-style bánh mì from Ba Xuyen in Sunset Park. A colossal roast beef, fried eggplant and mozzarella hero from Defonte's in Red Hook, with hot peppers, gravy and mayonnaise. A ton-katsu sando on pillowy milk bread from Taku Sando in Greenpoint.

These were all incredible. I could eat store-bought sandwiches in Kings County for a living, and I did for a time. (A few years ago, I ginned up a recipe for the roast beef hero from Defonte's.) But today is Easter, and not really a day for sandwiches — unless they're ham ones on little potato rolls, with strong mustard, to eat in a side yard in the chill while children run around looking for hidden eggs.

Give them to Father, please! (He'll trade for chocolates.) I want to make deviled eggs (above) to celebrate the holiday puckishly, or maybe a big egg salad to serve in lettuce cups. I definitely want to peel a few for pickled eggs, cured with beets, vinegar and sugar: beautiful pink orbs with a briny, slightly sweet flavor to eat as the week progresses.


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That's today's plan (along with a ham). As for the rest of the week. …

Monday

I love Sarah Copeland's recipe for tofu makhani, a vegetarian take on butter chicken, for both its ease of preparation and its deep flavor. Some replace the heavy cream added at the end with coconut milk. I am not one of them.

Tuesday

At first glance, David Tanis's recipe for pork cutlets with lemon and capers may appear to be a little much for a weeknight, with all that dipping and breading and frying. But it's easy, serial work that pays off beautifully. Serve with buttered noodles and plenty of lemon wedges.

Wednesday

Quesadillas for dinner are a wonderful thing, though they're sometimes difficult to make in bulk. Eric Kim's new recipe for sheet-pan quesadillas brings relief to those preparing them for a crowd, and you can adapt his instructions to your tastes and needs.

Thursday

Melissa Clark, queen of ease, brought us a lovely new recipe for one-pan creamy artichokes and peas. The dish makes for a lovely introduction to the season: sweetness cloaked in a sweater. You'll make it a few times before summer, no doubt.

Friday

And then you can welcome the weekend with a fine new recipe from Vallery Lomas for roasted chicken thighs with hot honey and lime. What I like about it is how you brush the thighs with a blend of hot sauce and butter halfway through baking, which crisps the skin nicely and provides a platform for the sweet astringency of lime and honey at the end.

There are many thousands more recipes waiting for you on New York Times Cooking. Yes, you need a subscription to read them. Subscriptions are the foundation of our enterprise. Please, if you haven't taken one out yet, would you consider doing so today? Thank you.

Write for help if you find yourself caught crosswise with our technology. We're at cookingcare@nytimes.com, and someone will get back to you, I promise. Or you can write to me if you'd like to yell about something or to say something nice. I'm at foodeditor@nytimes.com. I can't respond to every letter. But I read every one I get.

Now, it's some considerable distance from anything to do with potted hare or papadzules, but someone's probably going to tell you to watch the series "3 Body Problem" on Netflix. (Here's James Poniewozik's review in The New York Times.) I'm going to suggest that you read the three novels the show is based on instead. Much better!

"The Whistleblower," the latest dispatch from the Outlaw Ocean Project, casts a very dark eye on shrimp farming in India, an industry that provides roughly one in three shrimps consumed by Americans today.

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